Saturday, January 9, 2010

Mongolia | Turkey | Zaisan Tolgoi | Istanbul

Here’s a Shocker! Zaisan Tolgoi was not named by the New York Times as one of the  31 Places to Visit in 2010! But Istanbul was! Let’s look at the facts. Zaisan Tolgoi, in addition to being the terminus of bus routes #7, #33, and #12 and hosting a prison,  has a newly opened  restaurant, the Irish Palace (nothing  to do with Ireland; “Irish” is just synonymous with “restaurant” in Mongolia) with its own Coffee Corner and we now have a new mini-shop similar to a 7-11 except that is it only open twelve hours a day! So take that Istanbul, with all your ancient  Mosques and churches, Rococo Hotels, fancy Golden Horns, and whatnot. Don’t get me wrong, I love Istanbul—it is for sure on my list of 10 ten best places on the world—but let’s face it: it is not quite in the same league as Zaisan Tolgoi.

So here is what the ever-increasingly irrelevant and totally out-of-touch New York Times has to say about Istanbul:
19. Istanbul
The reputation of Istanbul’s contemporary art scene has been steadily growing in recent years, with the Web site ArtKnowledgeNews.com recently calling it “one of the most innovative in the world.” That reputation is bound to be burnished even more this year, now that Istanbul has been named the 2010 European Capital of Culture (a designation it shares with Essen, Germany, and Pecs, Hungary). There will be a series of events, gallery shows and stage performances throughout the city to mark the occasion. (A complete list of events can be found at en.istanbul2010.org/index.htm.) But one of the best ways to get a crash course in what Istanbul’s leading artists are up to right now is to spend some time wandering around the Misir Apartments (311/4 Istiklal Cadessi), right on the busy pedestrian thoroughfare that cuts through the trendy Beygolu neighborhood. Inside this elegant, early-20th-century building are some of the city’s most cutting-edge art venues, like Galerist (www.galerist.com.tr) and Gallerie Nev (www.galerinevistanbul.com) Afterward, head to the rooftop terrace and have a drink at 360 Istanbul, a stylish bar and restaurant that offers stunning views of the city’s skyline (360istanbul.com).
I was struck by the last line, because the Last Time I Was in Istanbul  my host Gunj and I did in fact pop by 360 Istanbul for a drink at the rooftop terrace (and when I say we had “a drink” I do not mean this as a euphemism for having twelve or fifteen drinks and then being shown the door by the bouncers; we had one drink each, OK?). In fact, the building is owned by the uncle of one of Gunj’s best friends, with whom we had dinner the night before. Small World! Amazingly enough, the NYT’s description is accurate; the rooftop terrace does indeed offer “stunning views of the city’s skyline.”

But since it mentioned the art scene in Istanbul why did the NYT leave out the Latest Show of Miniatures by Jahongir Ashurov? And why did the NYT fail to point out that George Gurdieff once Lived in An Apartment on Kumbaraci Sokak, not far from 360 Istanbul? Did I mention that the NYT is becoming increasingly irrelevant to say nothing of out-of touch?

Kumbaraci Sokak today
And why, in the name of all that’s Holy, no mention of the Tekke of the Whirling Dervishes, just down the street from 360 Istanbul? The tekke, which is now closed for renovation, has long been Rumored to be a Portal to Shambhala.

The Whirling Dervishes Tekke is supposedly closed for renovation. Or is this just a clever ruse for hiding a Portal to Shambhala?