Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Mongolia | Selenge Aimag | Amarbayasgalant Lollapalooza

Popped up to Amarbayasgalant Khiid for the Summer Lollapalooza during which the monastery's protectors, among them Jamsran and Dorje Shugden, were summoned. I had been to Amarbayasgalant Several Times Previously while gathering material for Travels in Northern Mongolia and Guidebook to Locales Connected with the Life of Zanabazar but on each of these trips I had been the only visitor present. Thus I was a bit discombobulated when I encountered several thousand people milling around the monastery and the nearby Naadam grounds. We had planned to camp along the banks of the Even River where I had camped before, but now there were already at least a thousand tents spread out for over a mile along the river bottom. There was even a food court of at least fifty gers and tents serving up khuushur, khorkhog, shorlog, and other delicacies from the pantheon of Mongolian cuisine. Fortunately we soon bumped into Ankha, Owner of the Silk Road Restaurant in Ulaan Baatar, who was spending the summer at Amarbayasgalant teaching the monks how to cook and advising them on the management of the monastery’s new ger camp. All the gers in the camp had been reserved at least a month ago, but he invited us to set up our tents on the grounds. Thus we had access to water and were only about a ten minute walk from the monastery itself.
Visitors streaming towards Amarbayasgalant


Amarbayasgalant Monastery

The Even Valley from one of the ovoos behind the monastery

The Dorje Shugden Temple, located about a mile from Amarbayasgalant

Dorje Shugden, on of the Protectors of Amarbayasgalant

Eight ovoos at the Dorje Shugden Temple, said to
represent the Eight Bogd Gegeens of Mongolia

The justly famous Amarbayasgalant Spring, about a mile from the monastery. As a connoisseur of drinking water I can attest that this is one of the better springs in Mongolia.

Friday, August 8, 2008

China | Xinjiang Province | Urumqi

Urumqi, in Xinjiang Province, China, has long been one of my favorite cities. Thus it is sad to read this news on the first day of Olympics in Beijing:
Xinjiang's capital, Urumqi, appeared to be on high alert today. Security guards were checking bags at the entrances of hotels, department stores and discos in the busy city, where office towers and apartments buildings have been shooting up in recent years. Guards with red arm bands rode on most public buses, watchful for attackers. Small groups of police patrolled the sidewalks of the bustling Muslim quarter, where merchants cooked lamb kebabs and sliced up watermelons at fruit stands.
Downtown Urumqi

Hong Shan (Red Mountain) in downtown Urumqi

Uighur Quarter in Urumqi

The famous Erdaoqiao Market in the Uighur Quarter

Uighur Restaurant

Performers in Uighur Restaurant

Uighur Carpet Store

Sample carpets

Pomegranates